Slowly vacuum and clean regularly to remove any airborne soiling, dust, crumbs, grit etc. Allow the suction of the vacuum cleaner to do
the work and avoid using vigorous downward pressure as this will cause undue destructive friction to the pile and won't improve suction.
Vacuums with rotating brushes are the best to use as they massage the fibre and suck at the same time. In areas subject to the
introduction of traffic borne grit, mud etc. For example the entrance doors, where concentrated vacuuming is required to ensure removal
of higher levels of harmful grit. Any spots should be removed immediately by dabbing with a damp cloth impregnated with a suitable
spotter.
We use a spotter in our own home which uses an everyday item. Please call if you would like to know what this is, and yes we will tell
you, and help you.
Warning, Never over wet the carpet as colour running or stain setting can occur. Don't rub or scrub as the destruction of the pile will
result and the mark you are trying to remove may be ground in permanently. Don't delay cleaning, as prompt action will save the day.
Don't trust the care of your carpet to just any so-called cleaner. It is a fact that many operators are inexperienced, untrained and ill
equipped and it is very easy to ruin an expensive carpet. You get pop ups, Facebook people claiming to clean. Only allow a recognised
and experienced professional carpet cleaning professional to treat one of your most costly furniture items. Odours are most commonly
caused by spills or the odour develops from bacteria, which is producing gas from the spillage. If the spilled material has not penetrated
deeply into the fibre then a thorough cleaning will usually remove the spill. The deeper the material penetrates into the fibre and the longer
it remains, the more difficult it will be to remove completely. It is difficult to remove odour producing stains from the “backing” of wall-to
wall carpeting and some upholstered furniture. Odours produced from materials such as animal waste are virtually impossible to
eliminate completely. Often the most practical solution is to replace the affected part of the carpet and underlay or cushion with a new
piece. Some odours, such as those produced by mildew, although removed, may recur with new mildew growth. Natural fibres, dyes,
finishing agents, foam or latex-backing compounds may also have odours. A good airing should dispel it but it may take up to a few
weeks for the new odour to disappear. A satisfactory solution is to replace the disagreeable odour with a more pleasant one.
Professional cleaners and restorers use highly effective deodorizers and equipment to reduce or to eliminate unpleasant odours from
spillage, animal pet stains, mould, mildew, or musty conditions.
Animal Stains
Dogs and cats may be our best friends, but not necessarily the best friends of our carpet, rugs, and upholstery. Those forgotten animals
stains, odours that we have become use to have been a problem ever since people and animals bonded together in companionship.
Urine
The two most common of reactions that can take place between the chemicals in an animal's urine and those in the dye and fabrics of
textile furnishings. The first type of reaction is immediate - as some dyes can change colour as soon as urine comes in contact with
them. Often the original colour can be restored by immediate application of an ammoniated solution. The second type of reaction
develops slowly over several days into months - and can result in permanent changes to the carpet dyes and fibre. Not only can the dyes
change, but some fibres may become weakened or destroyed by the urine. The decomposing urine can also produce an objectionable
odour given off by gases from bacteria. After cleaning, these areas are more obvious because the soils that hid the changed colour and
damaged fibres have been removed. There are three procedures to help combat these stains:
1. Absorb the damaged area with towelling, then treat with household detergent and absorb into white tissues or towelling, then blot the
area with ammonia solution.
2. Again, absorb the liquids into towelling, then blot the area with the standard vinegar solution.
3. Again, absorb the area with towelling until it is as dry as possible. Place a couple dry white terry cloths over the area and weigh down.
Allow a minimum of six hours to dry.
Faeces
Animal faeces tends to be easier to deal with than urine. Solid deposits can be quickly removed with a plastic bag. The surface should
then be cleaned with a Spotter and blotted dry. Rinse the area with water and blot again, then apply a disinfectant such as Dettol or
Solyptol or white vinegar solution (Call for our formula).
Loose faeces require the same clean-up procedure as described above for fresh urine removal. We advise this be followed with an
application of disinfectant. If your pets 'food contains red dye to make it look meatier this could leave a red discolouration at the site of the
accident. A professional carpet cleaner may be able to remove this. Take heed; some disinfectants on the market may cause
discoloration of textile furnishings.
General Information
If immediate action is taken to remove the animal stains, little or no change in colour should occur and the 'accident’ will not become
apparent after your carpet or textile has been professionally cleaned. If the pet 'accident' is forgotten it will return to haunt you, as dried
urine will smell like strong ammonia when humidity is high or when the spot is re wetted.
Stains
Have you recently had your carpets cleaned, only to find a mysterious stain appear where it may not have been noticeable before! Or
was the cleaner successful in removing certain stains when the carpet was just cleaned and still damp, only to have some stains
reappear after the carpet had thoroughly dried! This common situation is called ‘reappearing or wicking stains’ and is caused by staining
from a prior spillage having dried down at the base of the carpet pile. Although the surface staining may have been partially or fully
removed from the top of the carpet, some of the discoloured stained matter still remained - hidden deep down in the pile, and in the
underlay. During a thorough steam cleaning, the hidden stain is wetted and becomes mobile and wicks up to the top surface of the pile
as the carpet dries. This is normally down to the power of the vacuum. Since wall-to-wall carpet dries from the bottom up, this leaves the
top part of the pile as the last to dry completely. This is how the mysterious staining wicks or finds its way up to the carpet surface. You
can usually remove most or all of this reappearing stain by moistening it and then blotting with absorbent white towelling. Lightly mist the
stained area with water and blot with towels. Cover the stained area with towelling, add a layer of aluminium foil or wax paper on top and
then weight it down. Wait 30 minutes or so and then remove the weight and repeat as needed until the stain is removed. A second
approach is to use a multipurpose carpet spotter or dry cleaning fluid type spotter. Follow the manufacturer’s directions exactly and pre-
test the product for safety before using. Use the product sparingly and rinse frequently - blotting with absorbent towels as the last step. A
third alternative is to apply one of the dry extraction carpet cleaning compounds (a "powder" type carpet cleaning product). Lightly
massage or brush the cleaning compound into the stain. Leave it to work for about 30-60 minutes to absorb the stain material and then
thoroughly vacuum. Dry compounds often leave “ring” marks. Consumers who try to remove stains using the wrong cleaning products,
compounds or methods may only make the stained areas more noticeable. These stains, which did not immediately cause
discoloration, are often from spilled liquid containing colourless sugar that remained on the fibres. After long exposure to air, they change
to insoluble brown stains. The stains may look like a brownish discolorations but often remain unnoticed because of the accumulate soil
covering them. Some food and drinks stains may inevitably turn even darker from the necessary drying action after a thorough cleaning.
Other kinds of stains can be caused by water soaking through and dissolving materials that caused browning, or dissolving fugitive dyes
from the back of carpet, rug, or upholstery. As carpet fibres act as wicks, moisture will rise to the surface to evaporate, and
discolouration will be left. Any one not trained and try to remove stains by using the wrong cleaning compounds and procedures may
only make the stained areas more noticeable. Professional cleaners use specialty cleaning and stain removal treatments to improve the
appearance of forgotten drinks spills - cola, coffee, tea, alcoholic beverages, soda and others. Even using the best treatments, some
coloured residue or caramelised sugar stain resulting from the prior spillage may remain. To reduce the possibility of any stain damage,
immediate action should be taken; thoroughly absorb all moisture and, when possible, put a half-inch thickness of clean, white,
absorbent material, the thing would be to use paper or a cloth towelling, over the selected area and weight it down. Continuously replace
with fresh absorbent material and repeat as needed. Then call your professional carpet cleaner to learn how to remove the spot safely
before it becomes a permanent stain.
The sitting area
Have you ever noticed that were you sit day in day out, that those areas are darker than other areas of the carpet?
We are all guilty of this. And this is general heavy traffic marks.
Depending on the fibre of the carpet when cleaned you may get a 100% removal, or may be left with a shadow.
We have known customers to be told that the area in where they sit and cleaned will NOT return to the colours they expect.
Carpets are expensive items, and caring for them from day one help.
Just like your car, most people have a mat on the floor. This takes a lot of the daily wear and tear and when they look too tired and dirty
we just throw them away and replace with new.
The same is for your carpet.
What we advise to our customers is to use an off cut of the carpet that resides in the room concerned.
Normally the length of the sofa by about 12 inches.
This will be a god send for you years down the road.
And I bet you have been to a friend’s home and they have that dirty black mark. Why don’t you head this little bit of advice.
All over carpet protection
Some carpets that are fitted come with a stain guard application already.
Like most things in life they don’t last forever.
Friction is the normal enemy of carpets with a built in stain guard.
The stain guard will allow you to react to a spillage and stop a stain being formed.
The liquid will sit on the surface of the fibre for a couple of minutes before it starts to sink.
All you need to do is have a paper towel and place over the spillage.
The towel will absorb the stain. Dab the area with a damp towel to remove any remnants.
If your carpet does not have stain guard applied to it this can be applied for you.
The application is applied to the carpet and a brush is used to massage the chemical deep in to the fibres.
A second application may be applied depending on the carpet.
The drying process will depend on the humidity in the room concerned, but normal circumstance’s is 2/4 hours. The cure time is
normally 24 hours.
The product usually has a lifetime of 12 months but this can differ from property to property.